Ch.Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape 2012 750ml

Wine Advocate #209, Oct 31, 2013 by Jeb Dunnuck
The 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape, which was also tasted from multiple barrels as well as a rough final blend, looks spectacular! Nicely concentrated and textured, with a lively, focused feel, it possesses piercing black cherry, kirsch, pine oil, white pepper and hints of gaminess to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fine tannin and bright acidity. While there's good overall heft and depth here, finesse and elegance are the name of the game, and I suspect it will be relatively accessible in its youth.

If there is one single wine in the appellation that signifies the true level of greatness possible in Chateauneuf du Pape, perhaps itâ??s Rayas. Like the First Growths of Bordeaux, Rayas could be the wine that stands above all the others in this appellation. The bouquet is haunting. The purity of fruit can be otherworldly and the textures are extraordinarily sensuous.
Chateau Rayas has been around longer than their oldest vines. The Reynaud family, (who still manage Rayas toady) began working at the property in 1880, due to an unforeseen occurrence. Albert Reynaud, who lived and worked in Avignon, which is close to Chateauneuf du Pape went deaf at the age of 45. That caused him to seek a new career. He decided to become a winemaker in the Rhone valley and he purchased Rayas.
After Albert passed away, Louis Reynaud inherited Rayas. The family added to their holdings. In 1935 they bought Chateau des Tours. Ten years later, they added Chateau Fonsalette to their vineyards. Jacques Reynaud managed the estates from 1978 until he passed away in 1997. The quality of Rayas slipped after Jacques died. His son Emmanuel took over the property and for a few years, the wines were not at the level of quality capable of being produced at Rayas. Starting with the 2005 vintage, things turned around for the domaine.
Rayas is one the legendary properties from Chateauneuf du Pape. Some of the wines produced by Jacques Reynaud sell for over $1,000 a bottle today! There is no secret to the quality of the wine. Great terroir, with poor, red, sandy soils, low yields and they are usually one of the last properties to harvest. Of the 23 hectares of vineyards Rayas owns, only 12 are under vine. Of those hectares, 2 of them are dedicated to white wine grape varieties. Interestingly, but not surprisingly, Rayas has a unique terroir. Their vines are planted on deep layers of sand. Very few stones are found littering the landscape. Those poor soils are a big part of what goes into the singular character found in their wines.
Rayas remains a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape estate. They retain a good portion of their stems. The grapes are pressed in bundles. Malolactic fermentation takes place in enamel, coated barrels. The wine is aged in demi muids of various capacities.
Rayas produces two red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and one white Chateauneuf du Pape. The white wine, is an even blend of Grenache Blanc and Clairette.
Pignan is the second wine of Rayas. In some years, like 1990, it is an amazing wine that while not at the level of Rayas, itâ??s still outstanding. Itâ??s produced from almost 100% old vine Grenache from the young vines of their holdings.
They also make make three different Fonselatte wines, a Syrah, the la Pialade and a blanc. The domaine also makes the very good, value priced, Chateau des Tours in Vacqueyras.

Meats, Lamb