Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru 2019 750ml

Burghound.com, Apr 10, 2021
A spicier and more deeply pitched nose of dark raspberry, floral, plum and exotic tea is trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The equally refined yet even more powerful and more concentrated flavors exude a subtle bead of minerality on the superbly persistent finish. This needs to develop more depth but the sheer density of material coupled with what will undoubtedly be an extended aging curve should enable that to occur. This is potentially superb.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon has the deepest and coldest cellars in Burgundy and they nurture some of the greatest dry white wines of Burgundy. Dominique Lafon is the leading producer in Meursault, producing wines of astonishing depth and complexity, yet supremely balanced as well.
The domaine dates back to the building of the house and cellar at Clos de la Barre by the Boch family in 1869. However the real creator of the estate was Comte Jules Lafon who married Mademoiselle Marie Boch on St Vincent’s day 1894, and was shrewd enough to purchase exceptionally well sited plots in the best vineyards of Meursault and Volnay, as well as a treasured piece of Le Montrachet acquired in 1919.
Dominique Lafon has been in charge since 1985, taking over a domaine which already had a reputation for outstanding, if irregular whites, and potentially good reds. When Lafon took over the domaine, most of his vineyards were leased out on a share-cropping basis. It was only towards the end of the 80s that he managed to reclaim all the vineyards and thus have full responsibility for them.The white wines are now consistently among the best in Burgundy while since 1989 the reds have reached the top division.